Perfecting the artwork of city dwelling
Copenhagen at all times ranks extremely in surveys of the world’s finest cities, and little surprise. Dimension actually helps: it’s sufficiently big to have world-class museums, eating places and sights; sufficiently small to make them simply accessible. Then there’s its unerring capability to mix quaint and funky: one minute you’re in Indre By or Christianshavn, strolling alongside a cobbled road with roses and hollyhocks rising out of the pavement; the following, you’re discovering angular 21st-century structure alongside the revitalised waterfront or hanging with the hipsters among the many indie boutiques and bars of Vesterbro and Nørrebro.
In summer time you’ll be able to hit the seashores and harbour swimming pools; in winter, wander festive streets strung with fairy lights and get your hygge repair in cosy, candlelit cafés. There’s cool design at each flip, the meals scene is buzzing, and nearly everybody speaks English. The Danes take high quality of life severely and it exhibits – Copenhagen is a metropolis success story that basically works for locals and vacationers alike.
Suzanne King, our knowledgeable, gives her prime tips about the most effective issues to do and the most popular locations to eat, drink and store this season.
At Alchemist (Refshalevej 173C; 00 45 3171 6161) – essentially the most eagerly awaited new restaurant opening because the rebirth of noma – chef Rasmus Monk delivers ‘holistic cuisine’, a multi-sensory mix of cutting-edge meals, artwork, music and political remark that’s made it one of many hottest tables on the town.
After many delays, there’s lastly a confirmed opening date for CopenHill (Vindmøllevej 6), a unprecedented new city playground constructed on prime of the Amager Bakke waste-to-energy plant. From four October 2019, you’ll have the ability to whizz down its synthetic ski slope, observe a mountain climbing path that runs alongside, deal with the world’s highest climbing wall and revel in fabulous all-round views from the highest.
• One of the best issues to do in Copenhagen
Head to the Danish Structure Centre (Bryghusgade 10; 00 45 3257 1930) to catch ‘BIG presents DESIGN’, a serious new exhibition dedicated to the work of BIG (Bjarke Ingels Group), the influential Danish architectural observe whose progressive designs are making their mark on city landscapes world wide. Runs till 5 January 2020.
• One of the best free issues to do in Copenhagen
Deco (Ny Adelgade 5; 00 45 2615 7437) solely opened in March however already it’s seen off robust competitors to scoop the title of Copenhagen’s prime cocktail bar for 2019 within the prestigious Berlingske/AOK Byens Bedste awards. Anticipate well-mixed drinks, a relaxed environment and high quality snacks from Frank restaurant subsequent door.
Impressed Luxurious Escapes
Start within the cultural quarter, dwelling to big-hitting sights together with the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (Dantes Plads 7; 00 45 3341 8141) and the Nationwide Museum of Denmark (Ny Vestergade 10; 00 45 3313 4411), the place the store is nice for Viking-themed presents. Quieter and properly price a go to is Thorvaldsens Museum (2 Bertel Thorvaldsens Plads; 00 45 3332 1532), devoted to Denmark’s most well-known sculptor, which has artworks displayed beneath extraordinary ceilings.
Cross over the canal at Højbro (trying over the parapet on the suitable to see the underwater sculptures of Agnete and the Mermen), then flip proper and head for the waterfront promenade of Havnegade, which leads (previous trampolines set into the pavement) to Inderhavnsbroen bridge.
On the far aspect of the bridge, the stalls of Bridge Road Kitchen (Strandgade 95; 00 45 3393 0760) are good for an off-the-cuff lunch.
Cross again over the bridge to Nyhavn, most likely essentially the most photographed spot on the town. A stroll alongside the quayside, lined with eating places and bars, brings you to Kongens Nytorv and, on the far aspect, the primary central purchasing district together with the lengthy, pedestrianised stretch of Strøget, which begins simply to the left of Lodge d’Angleterre. Right here you’ll discover the super-swish Illum division retailer (Østergade 52; 00 45 3314 4002), the place concessions embody a number of Danish vogue manufacturers, and close by Georg Jensen (Amagertorv four; 00 45 33 11 40 80) full of supremely covetable silverware.
For quirkier independents, fork off south into Strædet, with its small ceramics and jewelry shops, or dive into the community of streets on the north aspect. Hidden away amongst them is Gråbrødretov, a horny cobbled sq. with loads of bars for a mid-shop pit-stop. If the climate’s high-quality, Huks Fluks (Gråbrødretorv eight; 00 45 3391 9293), on the sunny aspect of the sq., is an effective place to take a seat at one of many outside tables and watch the world go by.
As evening falls, head for Tivoli (Vesterbrogade three; 00 45 3315 1001). The amusement park (which celebrated its 175th anniversary in 2018) is at its most magical after darkish, glowing with fairy lights, lanterns and soft-glow bulbs. From four April to 22 September it will likely be in summer time mode, with the gardens in full bloom and a programme of out of doors occasions and concert events.
Have dinner on the Tivoli meals courtroom (the place 15 upscale meals stalls provide all the things from tapas and sushi to thin-crust pizza and toasted sandwiches served with artisan gins) or make a reservation at one of many many in-park eating places; highlights embody the inventive vegetarian meals at Gemyse however you probably have Jack Sparrow-loving youngsters in tow, attempt Pirateriet, a pirate ship on the lake serving burgers, steaks and skewers.
Take to 2 wheels to cowl extra floor at this time. Most accommodations rent out bikes but when not they’ll have the ability to level you in the direction of the closest rental store; there’s additionally Bycyklen, a public rent scheme with electrical bikes stationed at round 100 areas round city.
First up: Torvehallerne (Frederiksborggade 21), the wonderful market halls, for breakfast foodie shopping and an opportunity to select up provides for a picnic lunch. Then head southeast, previous fairly Ørstedsparken, and switch left into Vester Voldgade, which leads previous Metropolis Corridor to the waterfront, the place Lille Langebro, town’s latest bridge, carries you over the harbour to Christianshavn.
On the alternative financial institution, flip proper, cycle underneath Langebro and also you come to GoBoat, the place you’ll be able to hire a ship for one, two or three hours (DKK 449/£55, DKK 799/£99 or DKK 1,zero49/£130 respectively). There’s a desk within the centre of the boat, so lay out your picnic lunch to take pleasure in as you pootle across the harbour and canals at your individual tempo.
After returning the boat, head to the next-door harbour baths, a summer time hotspot the place you’ll be able to be a part of the crowds dipping and diving within the water or simply sit on the quayside and revel in people-watching.
Then reclaim your bike and head up, by way of the Olafur Eliasson-designed Cirkelbroen, to the harbour bus cease at Knippelsbro. Soar on a ferry heading north and benefit from the half-hour-ish experience to the top of the road at Refshaleoen.
Don’t be delay while you’re greeted by what seems like a wasteland – this former industrial space is without doubt one of the coolest locations on the town in the mean time, as outdated warehouses steadily replenish with a mixture of inventive, sporty and foodie ventures. Do tradition at Copenhagen Modern (Refshalevej 173A; 00 45 29 89 72 88), deal with the excessive ropes course at City Ranger Camp (Refshalevej 177; 00 45 51 20 77 03) and revel in a floating scorching tub at CopenHot (Refshalevej 325; 00 45 31 32 78 08). Or simply sit back with a drink – highlights embody the road meals stalls of Reffen (A, Refshalevej 167; 00 45 33 93 07 60), brewery/bar Broaden & Construct (Refshalevej 175A; 00 45 73 70 81 70) and La Banchina (Refshalevej 141; 00 45 31 26 65 61), a cute little wine bar/restaurant proper on the water.
Head again to the centre by way of the canal district of Christianshavn or take the southbound ferry one cease to Nordre Toldbod and nip as much as go to the Little Mermaid earlier than biking again alongside the waterfront.
Head to the west aspect of city, the place the as soon as dodgy district of Vesterbro is now probably the greatest locations to spend a night, with a relentless stream of recent cafés, bars and eating places opening up. Cocktail junkies are properly served by the likes of Lidkoeb (Vesterbrogade 72B; 00 45 3311 2010), Duck & Cowl (Dannebrogsgade 6; 00 45 2812 4290) and Curfew (Stenosgade 1; 00 45 2929 9276), however no matter you fancy to eat or drink, you’re more likely to discover it within the Meatpacking District and surrounding streets. If you may get a desk at Sanchez (Istedgade 60; 00 45 3111 6640), a Mexican restaurant from ex-Noma pastry chef Rosio Sanchez, a lot the higher.
Hotel d’Angleterre was based in 1755 and has a spot in Copenhagen historical past; nevertheless, it’s actually not caught up to now. This ultra-elegant palace resort combines interval options (grand proportions, stately columns, lavish chandeliers) with bucketloads of latest consolation and elegance (a cultured color palette of muted lilacs and greys, luxe supplies and dramatic floral preparations).
Double rooms from DKK three,00zero (£371). 34 Kongens Nytorv; 00 45 3312 0095
The five-star Nobis Lodge Copenhagen is a good-looking conversion of an historic constructing and town’s solely member of the Design Resorts group. The staff behind it has revered interval options however not been afraid so as to add modern twists – the reception desk is a stark concrete block and the central stairwell is now full of a twinkly trendy mild set up. The restaurant serves high-end bistro meals.
Doubles from DKK 2,300 (£284). 1B Niels Brocks Gade; 00 45 7874 1400
Price range Magnificence
Wakeup Copenhagen Borgergade could also be a price range possibility nevertheless it gives well-designed rooms, an awesome location and keen-to-please workers. It’s trendy and minimalist, and the large, open reception space is much extra spectacular than you’d count on, with acres of area and good design that comes with Poul Henningsen mild fittings and Arne Jacobsen chairs.
Double rooms from DKK 500 (£62). Borgergade 9; 00 45 4480 0090
Danish design is rightly well-known and also you’ll discover covetable ceramics, furnishings and lampshades at each flip. The central design retailer Illums Bolighus (10 Amagertorv) is an effective start line.
Pick up some liquorice, particularly the creations of Lakrids by Johan Bülow. Magasin (Kongens Nytorv 13) has a wide variety of the numerous completely different flavoured varieties, together with seasonal restricted editions.
Summer is peak vacationer season. The climate is at its finest and town is at its most gregarious, with café tables on each spare inch of pavement area, outside occasions within the parks, and the waterfront buzzing with exercise. Inevitably, there are extra queues and crowds at key vacationer sights, so that you would possibly want the quieter seasons both aspect: spring means lovely shows of flowering bulbs within the parks, whereas autumn brings one of many highlights of the cultural calendar (Kulturnatten or Tradition Evening) and the possibility to see Tivoli in Halloween mode.
Come November and December, that is considered one of Europe’s finest locations for a pre-Christmas break. The entire metropolis is full of festive spirit, and the gløgg-scented streets twinkle with fairy lights. Climate-wise, the chilly days and lengthy nights in the beginning of the yr are a deterrent to most however February brings a lightweight competition and a brand new winter season at Tivoli.
• Inside the centre you’ll be able to simply get in all places on foot, however when you determine to make use of public transport, you’ll discover it usually works like a dream. It’s additionally totally built-in, so when you purchase a Metropolis Cross (24 or 72 hours) it’s legitimate not just for buses and Metro throughout the central zones, but additionally for trains and harbour ferries. You’ll be able to order one prematurely on-line or purchase from the DSB ticket machines on the airport and use immediately to get to town centre.
• For those who’re planning to go to plenty of museums and galleries, together with some additional out of city, take into account shopping for a Copenhagen Card as a substitute. Legitimate for 24, 48, 72 or 120 hours, it not solely supplies free public transport over a wider area but additionally offers entry to many sights.
• In the case of dinner, both eat out early or make a reservation. It’s not simply Michelin-starred eating places that get booked up – even little neighbourhood bistros may be actually busy, particularly at weekends, so don’t simply assume you’ll have the ability to rock up wherever and get a desk.
• Service is usually included in restaurant payments nevertheless it’s more and more frequent to spherical up the invoice or go away a bit additional when you’ve had actually good service. Nevertheless, nobody’s ever going to chase you out of a restaurant complaining you haven’t tipped sufficient.
• Keep in mind that the Danes are a law-abiding individuals. Even when there’s no visitors for miles round they gained’t cross the street till a inexperienced man offers them the nod. They’re additionally very smart and count on others to be the identical.
• Stroll alongside a quayfront within the UK and it’s more likely to have railings all the best way alongside. Not right here – it’s all open they usually simply belief you to have the sense to not throw your self in. Equally, resort service, though pleasant and well mannered, tends to imagine a stage of self-reliance. In lots of accommodations, for instance, they gained’t routinely provide to hold your baggage to your room – however when you ask for assist they’ll fortunately give it.
Currency: Danish krone
Phone code: 00 45
Time distinction: 1 hour
Flight time (from London): 1 hour 50 minutes
British Embassy: 00 45 3544 5200; gov.uk; Kastelsvej 36-40, 2100 Copenhagen (Østerbro). Open 9am-5pm, Mon-Fri
Police: dial 112
Ambulance: dial 112
Vacationer workplace: Copenhagen Customer Service, Vesterbrogade four, 1620 Copenhagen V (diagonally reverse Tivoli fundamental entrance)
Suzanne first visited Copenhagen in 1990 and was immediately smitten. Immediately you’ll discover her roaming its cocktail bars, endlessly excited by seeing crimson squirrels within the parks and planning to return Danish in her subsequent life.
Telegraph Journey’s finest accommodations and excursions in Copenhagen, tried, examined and really useful by our Copenhagen consultants.